York is quickly becoming one of my favorite cities in England. For someone who loves history, Catholic history, and English towns with wonky homes (you know the kind where they look like stilts need to hold them up), York has it all and we’ve only started to scratch the surface.

Let’s start with the history – York was first settled by the Romans and became a key post for them when defending the frontier against the Picts in the north. It was such an important outpost that three emperors spent time here, including Constantine the Great, who was actually proclaimed emperor in York in AD 306. You can still see traces of this Roman presence in the city walls and the fortress ruins that have stood the test of time.

Then comes the Catholic history. After St. Augustine established the Church in Canterbury, he sent others northward to spread the faith and formally establish the Church across England. St. Paulinus was the man for the job, and in 627 he baptized King Edwin of Northumbria in York – right where York Minster stands today. From that moment, York became a center of Christianity in the north, a role it has held ever since.

Of course, no city’s story is complete without a Viking invasion. In 866, the Vikings captured York, renaming it Jorvik. They left their mark not just in name but in the culture and trade that made the city thrive. Walking around today, you can dive into this Viking world at the Jorvik Viking Centre, which is always a hit with kids.

Over the centuries, York continued to be one of England’s most important cities – politically, militarily, and spiritually. From medieval guilds and merchant wealth to the Reformation and the struggles of Catholics in hiding, the layers of history are everywhere you look.

And then there’s the charm. Today, York’s medieval heart still beats in its winding streets around York Minster and the Shambles. As an American, I’m endlessly fascinated by the crooked, timber-framed houses, leaning so precariously you’d think they were part of a film set. Honestly, the Leaning Tower of Pisa has nothing on the Shambles!

Family Day Out

Eager to dive into York’s layers of history, we set off for a full family day of exploring.

We began at Bar Convent, England’s oldest living convent. It’s the kind of place you could easily walk past without ever guessing the treasures inside. The museum tells stories of resilience during the years when Catholicism was outlawed, but what struck me most was the hidden chapel. From the outside, you’d never know it was there. Stepping inside felt like uncovering a secret – a serene, beautiful space that had survived centuries of danger. It was a powerful way to start the day, and it gave us all something to think about as we went on.

From there, we climbed up onto the medieval city walls, which circle much of York. The boys were instantly hooked. Walking along the top, you can peek out over the rooftops, spot church spires in the distance, and imagine soldiers once patrolling the same path. Henry, of course, turned it into a game – pretending to be an archer, aiming his imaginary bow at invaders from the north. For him it was a battlefield; for me, it was a moment to just soak in the view and remember how many feet had walked there before ours.

Our next stop was Clifford’s Tower, a striking stone keep perched on a grassy mound. Originally built by William the Conqueror, it has seen its share of dramatic history from royal power to rebellion to tragedy. Climbing up the steep steps is no small feat (especially with kids racing ahead), but at the top you’re rewarded with sweeping views across York. You can see the Minster rising in the distance, the snaking line of the Ouse, and the rooftops of the Shambles all huddled together. It’s the kind of view that makes you pause and take a deep breath, feeling both small and connected to something bigger.

By lunchtime, our energy was flagging, so we made our way to Shambles Market. It’s lively and colourful, with the sizzle of street food and stalls selling everything from steaming noodles to freshly baked pies. Perfect for families, since everyone can pick exactly what they want. We perched on benches with our choices, swapping bites of each other’s food, and enjoyed the bustle around us.

Around the corner, we stepped into St. Margaret Clitherow’s Shrine, tucked quietly among the crooked timber-framed shops of the Shambles. The house is small, easy to miss, but standing inside it was a moving experience. To think that this ordinary home belonged to a woman who chose faith and courage over safety, ultimately giving her life, made a strong impression on all of us. Later in the day, we even sought out the plaque marking the spot of her execution, hidden away on Ouse Bridge. We found it as the twilight settled in, which somehow made the moment even more haunting and unforgettable.

And of course, we couldn’t resist just wandering the Shambles themselves. The street is narrow, the buildings leaning in as though whispering secrets to one another. Some of the shop signs look like they would creak overhead, while windows jut out at odd angles, filled with everything from sweets to crafts to quirky souvenirs. It feels like the “most magical street in England.”

The crown jewel of the afternoon was York Minster. No matter how many times I see it, its scale and beauty stop me in my tracks. Inside, sunlight filters through the Great East Window, the largest expanse of medieval stained glass in the world, casting jewel-like colours across the stone. In the Chapter House, the soaring octagonal ceiling and intricate carvings almost feel alive, especially with a choir singing while we visited. The sound filled the space, echoing off the stone, and it truly felt like stepping into heaven on earth. Down in the crypt, the museum tells the layered story of the site, from Roman fortress to Christian cathedral, reminding you that York’s history has been built up, layer by layer, right here. And then came the tower climb: 275 steps that left us all breathless, but the reward at the top, with the whole city stretched out beneath us, was simply unforgettable.

Just across the street is the York Oratory, a quieter but no less beautiful church. While York Minster dazzles with its sheer size and history, the Oratory feels more like a lived-in parish home. Its rich baroque interior glows with warm wood and gilded detail, inviting you to sit and pray rather than just look. For me, knowing its ties to St. Philip Neri’s Oratorian order, brought to England by St. John Henry Newman, gave a deep sense of connection – like stepping into a thread of faith that stretches across centuries and continues today. It was the perfect counterpoint to the grandeur of the Minster.

As the day wound down, we wandered through the ruins of St. Mary’s Abbey, where crumbling stone arches still rise against the sky. The boys darted through the grass, playing among the fallen walls, while I lingered for a moment just to take in the beauty of the ruins bathed in evening light. From there, a walk along the river and eventually dinner at Ye Olde Starre Inn, where we ended the day with a hearty pub dinner – exactly what you want after a long day on your feet.

And yet, even after a full day, York left us wanting more. At the top of our list for next time are the Jorvik Viking Centre (a guaranteed hit with kids) and more stretches of the medieval walls. We also want to explore the National Railway Museum, with its hands-on exhibits and legendary trains, the York Castle Museum, where you can step straight into recreated Victorian streets, and the York Chocolate Story because history told through sweets is always a winner in our house. York has a way of pulling you back again and again, each visit peeling away another layer of its incredible story.

York truly has something for everyone – whether you’re climbing towers, wandering crooked medieval streets, or pausing in quiet chapels that carry centuries of faith. For our family, it was the perfect mix of adventure, history, and discovery, with plenty of moments that sparked curiosity (and a few that worked off the boys’ endless energy!). One day was enough to fall in love with the city, but not nearly enough to see it all.

We’ll definitely be back, and if you’re looking for a place where your family can step into the past while making new memories together, York is a city that will capture your heart too.